Went to the mountains: Anatoly Boukreev
Anatoly Boukreev (mostly all called him Tolya) was a professional mountaineer-altitude climber, climbing consultant, author of various articles on climbing, photographer, ski coach and just a very brave and courageous man.
From his childhood Anatoly loved the mountains. With 12 years he started to climb on different low hills of the Ural mountains, and in his student years went South and I climbed in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. After graduating from the pedagogical University, he went to Kazakhstan to
be closer to the mountains, to teach children skiing. In fact, he worked for several years as a teacher in Alpine skiing at the local school, then began working as a mountain instructor.
Behind him was a huge number of conquered mountains. He conquered 11 of the 14 eight-thousand mountains available. Some of them he conquered without oxygen (if you didn’t know, man, at high altitude is considerably less oxygen and the air is less saturated that not a drop is not conducive to climbing). Anatoly made a single high-speed ascent to Lenin peak, becoming in the USSR, the founder of the new tactics of climbing. And being a part of the Second Soviet Himalayan expedition for the first time in the world made in the group traverse (passing at least two peaks and the descent from the previous summits should be held in the direction of the subsequent, but not on the route) of the four peaks of the MT Kanchenjunga in the Himalayas, and received the order of the USSR «For personal courage». 4 of these eight-thousanders, he has conquered all for 80 days, and two for the week, but about it nobody knows, because Anatoly is known for more sad stories.
Back in 1996 Anatoly was high-altitude guide American expedition «Mountain Madness», which has collected his friend Scott Fischer. We will not go into the details of the tragedy of this ascent, but the fact that Anatoly, rising and descending from the Everest without oxygen, managed to save 3 people, found them in a snowstorm. About this tragedy written a few books. From different eyewitnesses of the tragedy blamed everyone and everything, and even Anatolia, but after the book «the Ascent» (I suggest you to read at your leisure, if you have already read all the books that we told you) Anatoly was fully justified in the eyes of the public, and the American Alpine Club awarded him the Prize named David Solsa, honoring climbers who saved people in the mountains with the risk of his own life. Under his leadership, Everest first ascended the Indonesians, Danes and Brazilians. He helped to reach the top, even for inexperienced lovers, or those who had no relationship to the mountains. Why to achieve? According to Anatoly he didn’t like the word «conquer». To conquer is a violent word, and Gory violence is not tolerated. Therefore, he used the word to achieve. Also Anatoly was a real patriot of his country, in spite of dual citizenship (of the USSR and Kazakhstan), received the award «For courage» in both countries.
«Many times I have been abroad. Sometimes, for six months out of the house. But kept coming back. Because I missed our air, our atmosphere, where I grew up. And I consider myself a citizen of the world. I say, «Anatoly, you train in America, I live in Kazakhstan, and he hails from the Urals’. I answer: «as it turns out, I spent most of the time I spend in Nepal’. But I Soviet. I remained a Soviet man. Nothing in me has changed since the collapse of the Soviet Union.»
A. Bukreyev.Anatoly was killed in 1997 while climbing to his 12th eight-thousander Annapurna. Annapurna is considered one of the most dangerous mountain ranges. He was swept away by the avalanche. As the saying goes, «the best go first.» And Anatoly was the best at climbing, one of the strongest climbers on the planet. His American girlfriend, a monument at the foot of the mountain – traditional Buddhist stone pyramid. The plaque is inscribed the phrase, once dropped by Anatoly: «Mountains are not stadiums where I satisfy my ambitions, they are temples where I profess my religion.»
During his life and after his death about Anatolia written many books. The most famous of them – «the Ascent», where he talked about the tragedy of climbing expedition with Mountain Madness. Also in his honor is open Foundation, which helps Kazakhstan climbers in climbing the peak of mount McKinley.